Formulary Creams
Making lotions and creams with non-ethoxylated and peg-free emulsifiers takes a bit more care in preparation but the end product is well worth the effort. If you have been using other emulsifying compounds (generally called e-wax) you will notice some of these differences:
· When you combine your oil and water phase the two phases will layer out. They may continue to do this until the emulsion is cooled. Keep mixing and a stable emulsion will occur in the end. I generally mix with a high speed hand mixer such as a Braun stick blender. I don’t mix till the emulsion is completely cool but mix and then come back to it every so often until it’s completely cooled.
· When using high speed mixers pulse them off and on. This will keep air from getting into your creams and lotions. An emulsion with pockets of air will deteriorate faster.
· Lactymulse™ has a low melting point (50°C or 120°F). Make sure you use a thermometer to make sure you don’t overheat it. Overheating will cause graininess in the end product.
· When using hard fats such as Cocoa Butter or Mango Butter they may have a higher melting point than the Lactymulse™. Heat the oils first and then add your Lactymulse™ to the oils and melt.
· I generally only use naturally hard fats such as Mango, Kokum or Cocoa Butter versus hydrogenated butters such as Avocado, Aloe etc. Many of these are hydrogenated with pegs.
Here are some sample formulas to follow. Please read our Instructions on making emulsions and weight versus volume measurements.
note: mix the potassium sorbate into the water first and make sure it’s fully disolved before adding other ingredients.
| Ingredient | #1 | #2 | #3 | #4 | #5 | #6 |
| Oil Phase | ||||||
| Emuslifier | ||||||
| SAM-E | 4 | 6 | ||||
| Emulsifying Compound | 8 | 6 | 8 | |||
| Deleted | 2 | |||||
| Lecithin | 2 | 2 | 2 | |||
| Cetearyl Alcohol | ||||||
| Plant Oils or Fats | ||||||
| Solid Oils | 5 | 8 | 8 | 20 | ||
| Plant Oils | 20 | 15 | 12 | 10 | 12 | |
| Luxury Oil | 2 | 5 | ||||
| Anti-oxidant | ||||||
| Water Phase | ||||||
| Hydrosol (floral water) | 60 | 60 | ||||
| Lactic Acid | 2 | 2 | 2 | 2 | ||
| Sodium PCA | 2 | 2 | ||||
| Jojoba Aqua | ||||||
| Honey or Glycerin | 3 | 3 | 3 | 3 | ||
| Pure distilled water | to100% | to100% | to100% | to100% | to100% | to100% |
| Potassium Sorbate | 0.5 | 0.5 | 0.5 | 0.25 | 0.5 | |
| Xanthan Gum | 0.25 | |||||
| Naturagard™ | 1 | 1 | 0.5 | 1 | 0.5 | |
| Phenxoyethanol | 1 | 1 | 1 | |||
| Provitamin B5 | ||||||
| Naturactive cmplx™ | 1 | 1 | 1 | 1 | ||
| Essential Oils or Fragrance | 2 | 2 | 2 | 2 |
1. #1 is a simple formula with just emulsifier, liquid oil, pure distilled water and preservative. It turned out as a light white creamy cream with soft peaks. It took a couple of minutes to sink into my skin but was not overly greasy. It left my hands feeling soft for several hours.
2. #2 is basically the same formula as #1. I have added some botanical actives, fragrance and 0.25% of potassium Sorbate to bump up the preservative action. It was a bit yellower than #1 and formed stiffer peaks. I did not really notice any significant difference in skin feel.
3. #3 I’ve used lecithin as a secondary emulsifier. Not only does lecithin help nutrients pass the skin barrier it created a barrier on the skin to keep the moisture in. I have used a trio of preservatives including phenoxyethanol into the mix. In addition to lactic acid I have added Sodium PCA a great Humectant and moisturizer. It will also help preserve the water phase.
I have created these examples so you can see how easy it is to modify your Recipes once you get the hang of the proportion of oil to water and usage of weights to100. You might want to make up a similar spreadsheet for yourself while you are testing your own formulas.
Keep in mind if you want a light cream that spreads easily use light oils and less oil. If you want heavier creams use more oil and heavier more solid oils. If you are selling your products we always urge you to thoroughly test your products for stability and safety. See our Lab and Testing category for tools.
