Water Dispersible Bath Oil
Water Dispersible Bath Oils
Water dispersible bath oils are very easy to make. They have the great advantage over regular bath oil because they mix through the water. The oils cover your body rather than floating on top of the water. When you get out of the tub you can just gently pat yourself dry and there is no need to apply lotion. Best of all, the lovely fragrance of the perfume oils carry you through the day or night.
To make any oil water dispersible you add 10-20% of Polysorbate 80 and mix them well. For example:
| Liquid Plant Oil | 75% |
| Essential Oil |
5% |
| Polysorbate 80 |
20% |
If you are not a person that takes baths these oils can be applied directly to your skin after getting out of the shower. When you massage them onto the skin they mix with the water. Lightly Pat yourself dry. Don’t forget the man in your life. This is a great way for him to combat dry skin without having to apply a heavier lotion.
Here are some useful tips when making up these oils
- It’s always a good idea to mix an anti-oxidant into a bath oil formula to keep your vegetable oils from going rancid and your essential oils from deteriorating. I recommend Vitamin E or Rosemary Oleoresin.
- If you are going to color the oils make sure your colorant is “oil soluble” or it won’t mix in.
- Package the oils in either glass bottles or PET plastic. Some plastics start to collapse when they have oil in them and the essential oils “leach out” through the plastic.
- I use a higher percentage of essential oils in my bath oils. Usually you only need add one capful of oil to a tub of water. I usually use about 20ml of essential oil per liter of oil.
- Since there is no water added to the oils you do not need a preservative.
- You can add other ingredients such as lecithin to your oils for extra skin conditioning
- I’ve seen some nice layered bath oils. These are achieved by adding ingredients that don’t mix with oil such as Glycerin or Honey. Shake them up before adding them to the bath. If you add these ingredients you still need no preservative as they have their own anti-microbial properties.
Bath Cakes and Bombs
© Aromatics & More Ltd.
Fizzing and Bubbling Bath Treats
Like most other people I had to play around with basic formulas till I came up with one that really worked for me. I started out using oil in my bath bombs but quickly found them melting and crumbling in the hot humid climate of New Zealand. Here are some helpful hints that I can pass on to you.
- Make sure all the dry ingredients are well mixed and that there are no lumps. The better you mix it all in the beginning the better the end product will turn out.
- Err on the side of having the mixture too dry rather than too wet. Once it’s too wet there’s no way to stop the citric acid from releasing air. You will land up with bath bombs that look like they have a bad skin disease.
- Many customers ask me for witch hazel or alcohol to use for their bath bombs. You don’t really need this. Plain clean water will do. The idea of using witch hazel or alcohol is that the liquid will evaporate quicker. If you don’t get your mixture too wet you won’t have a problem.
Basic Instructions for Bath Bombs
- Measure out all you dry ingredients and mix well in a large bowl.
- If you are using a powdered colorant such as ultramarines or oxides add them to the dry ingredients and mix in well. You won’t be able to see much color until you start spray liquid into it. If you are using liquid color add it a drop at a time while mixing your dry ingredients.
- If you are using fragrance start adding it a few drops at a time and mix in well with all the other dry ingredients.
- Finally put water in a spray bottle and start with a single spray and mix. Keep doing this until you can pick up the mixture and squeeze it in your hand and it almost holds together.
- Push the mixture into your mold packing it down as hard as you can. If it’s in hard enough you should be able to turn the mold over and bang it on the table so the bomb comes out.
- Let it dry for a day. This will happen very quickly.
Note: I have used as little as 15ml of water to wet a whole kilogram down. It doesn’t take much. - If you want a bit of oil in the mixture you can mix 10ml of oil with 10ml of Polysorbate 80. Add this to 80ml of water and use it as your spray mixture.
Bubbling Bath Products
Liquid Bubble Bath and Bath Cakes are very popular products. There is nothing more relaxing at the end of a long day than to sit in a tub of warm fragrant water surrounded by bubbles. The down side of this is that bubbling bath products are hard on the skin. The soap mixes with the lipid layer on the skin and removes it. This causes problems such as dry itchy skin and urinary tract infections. To counteract this problem I always add oil or Liposoft™ to the formulas to help replace the lipid layer back on to the skin.
Bubbling Bath Cakes
Making the bubbling bath cakes can be a bit tricky. I have had a few of my mixtures turn into a bubbling Mt. St. Helen’s. This happens when the mixture is too wet and the soap, citric acid, and bicarbonate start reacting with each other. When this happens I crumble it when it dry and use it as a bath powder so all is not lost. When the bubble cake turns out well it’s quite gratifying! Here are some pointers that I have come up with that make it easier.
This delightful bath cake will soften the water and your skin.
It has both bubbling ingredients and emollients. If you are making these for young children I recommend using the Polyglucose for the mildest.
| Ingredients | % of total |
Function |
| Phase 1 – Dry Ingredients | ||
| Citric Acid | 20 | Acidic active ingredient |
| Baking Soda |
43 | Alkaline active ingredient |
| Corn Flour |
20 | Binder/filler |
| Fine Milled Soap Base* |
10 | Surfactant |
| Phase 2 – Water | ||
| Lamesoft | 5 | Lipid layer enhancer |
| Vitamin E Oil | 1 | Anti-oxidant |
| Fragrance | 1 | Perfume |
A milled soap base can consist of LUX flakes or a finely grated bar of nice handcrafted soap.
Instructions
- Measure out all your dry ingredients into a large pot.
- Mix them well by hand making sure there are no lumps.
- Measure out your phase 2 wet ingredients.
- Add the wet ingredients to the dry ingredients and mix well with an electric hand mixer.
- When all the ingredients are well mixed (it will still feel somewhat like a dry powder but should hold together if you squeeze it in your hand.) put it into your molds. If it seems a bit too dry add a little more Lipsoft™ until it holds together when squeezed. Press the mixture in as hard as you can and let it sit for 24 hours. It should easily come out of the mold when you turn it over. If it doesn’t tap it a little.
Made correctly this will give you a very hard, very stable bath fizzy will lots of fizz and pizazz! I recommend that you read the instructions and hints in our section of instruction for best results.
| Ingredients | % of total |
Function |
| Phase 1 – Dry Ingredients | ||
| Citric Acid | 39 | Acidic active ingredient |
| Baking Soda | 49 | Alkaline active ingredient |
| Tapioca Flour | 10 | Binder/filler |
| Phase 2 – Water | ||
| Water | About 80 ml | Binder |
| Vitamin E Oil | 1 | Anti-oxidant |
| Fragrance |
1 | Perfume |
| Polysorbate 80 (optional) |
1 | Dispersant |
Instructions
- Measure out all your dry ingredients into a large pot.
- Mix them well by hand making sure there are no lumps.
- Measure out any colorant and fragrance and add it a drop or two at a time while mixing the dry ingredients.
- Measure out your water. Mix the Vitamin E oil and Polysorbate together and mix it into the water. This step is optional but the Vit ame E will keep the fragrance fresh.
- Start spraying your water mixture in a bit at a time while mixing. I have found it’s much easier to do this with 2 people. One person sprays while the other mixes. Make sure you check the mixture often so that you don’t get it too wet. You do this by picking up a handful and squeezing it. If it almost holds together you are ready to push it into your molds.
- Pack the mixture in hard. Usually you can turn the mold right over and the bomb will come out. Let it dry for a day and then wrap.
Lavender Bath Oil
Formulary: Lavender Fields Bath Oil: a Luxurious Water Dispersible Bath Oil
© Soapcraft Aromatics & More Ltd.
“Blooming” water dispersible bath oils are easy and simple to make. Generally you need only add a capful to the bath tub so the amount of essential oil that you add it higher at a rate of 10%. Choose any base oil that you want to mix the perfume in. Generally it will be a single or mixture of liquid vegetable oils such as Sweet Almond, Apricot, Olive, Avocado or Calendula. By adding Polysorbate 80 to the base oil it makes it “water dispersible”. Polysorbate 80 is a mild safe vegetable derived oil dispersant. Rather than have an oil slick floating on top of you bath water the emollient oils mix through the water and coat your skin. The oil will be on your skin rather that the tub so clean up is easy. After you get out of the tub pat yourself dry with your towel. Your skin will be soft and lightly perfumed. There is no need for lotion or cream.
Bath Oil in the Shower
If you don’t take baths but prefer a shower you may still take advantage of the water dispersible bath oil. After you have showered sprinkle a small amount onto you hand and massage into the skin. Pat yourself dry with a towel. The oils will mix with the water on your skin.
Here’s a simple formula for making a bath oil:
| Ingredients | % of total |
Function |
| Sweet Almond Oil | 35 | Emollient |
| Wheatgerm Oil | 15 | Emollient, anti-oxidant |
| Polysorbate 80 | 25 | Oil solubiliser |
| Lavender Essential Oil | 15 | Fragrance |
| Vitamin E Oil | 10 | Anti-oxidant |
Instructions
- Blend all ingredients together.
Creamy Honey Facial Cleanser
Our wonderful Pre-Milled Soap base consists of Saponified oils of Coconut and Palm and NOTHING ELSE.
This is a very creamy soap that has a nice slip. It leaves the skin feeling very smooth and moisturized with no dry tight feeling. We use100% naturally based ingredients with no strong odour. This is not a formula that is sudsy or foams but it is an excellent cleanser that mixes with dirt and oils to leave a very clean surface. This is wonderful for shaving your legs and various body parts too!
Formula for 500 grams (approximately 3 cups)
| Ingredient |
% of total |
Volume |
Purpose |
| Pre-Milled Vegetable Soap Base |
175 grams | 1 cup | Surfactant |
| Distilled Water |
220 grams | 1 cup | Dilutant |
| Lactic Acid |
25 grams | 5 teaspooons | ph regulator, moisturizer, promotes cell turnover |
| Natragard Ultra | 5 grams | 1 teaspoon | emollient, preservative |
| Honey |
25 grams | 2 teaspoons | humectant |
| Apricot Kernal (or oil of choice) |
30 grams | 2 tablespoons | emollient |
| Conditioning Emulsifier |
20 grams | 4 tablespooons | emulsifier |
| Patchouli Oil |
5 grams | 1 teaspoon | fragrance, skin conditioner |
| Rosewood Oil |
5 grams | 1 teaspoon | fragrance, skin conditioner |
Instructions
- Place your distilled water in a pot and bring the water to a boil.
- Turn the burner off and add Conditioning Emulsifier, Lactic acid, Geogard™, Honey and Apricot Kernal oil.
- Stir ingredients.
- Measure out your Vegetable soap flakes into a mixing bowl. ( I used a stick blender with a bowl attachment. You can use a hand mixer if you like. Be careful it does not splash while mixing.
- Pour the got mixture over the soap flakes and blend till creamy (much like a pudding or frosting).
- Add your fragrance oils and blend in well.
- Put your soap into wide mouth containers and let it cool completely.
- Cap and store till ready to use.
How to use
- Wet skin and apply a small amount of cream. Massage in with the water and rinse or shave. You may add more water if needed as you go along.
- Rinse the soap off well.
- It would not be unusual to feel a tingling due to the amount of lactic acid in the formula. If you are not interested in skin rejuvenation you may use just 3% instead of 5%.


