Formulary: Ointments, Massage Bars, Roll on Deodorants, Lip Balms, Lotion Bars,
and Hard Perfumes
General Instructions and Tips
What all these personal care items have in common is that there is no water in the formula. They all contain oils plus a thickener or hardener such as beeswax. Since they are oil only products they need no preservative in them. Oils will go rancid over time and should contain anti-oxidants. Anti-oxidants keep the oils from breaking down and emitting a rancid odor, they also keep perfumes and essential oils fresh. Typical anti-oxidants that are used may be Vitamin E oil, and botanicals such as Green Tea or Rosemary Extract.
Whether you product is creamy or a hard bar will be dependant on the types of oils you use and the amount of thickeners such as beeswax. What’s nice about these products is that if it turns out too runny or too hard, all you need do is re-melt it and make the adjustments you need to make.
Humectants or moisturizing agents such as honey or glycerin may be added to these formulas but you will need to mix then in until they start to harden or they will separate out.
Oil only products tend to feel greasy on the skin. If this is not the feel you are after you may add an absorbent powder such as tapioca powder to give the product a “powdery” feel. You can start with rates up to 20% of the total product. Mix powder in well with a hand mixer until creamy and well dispersed.
Containers for these products may be cosmetic cream pots, rollup deodorant containers, or plastic containers from your kitchen. If you are using roll up containers you will want the base to be fairly solid. Lotions Bars should pop out of the container fairly easily. If you have problems you may put them in the freezer for 15 minutes to harden more and then it will be easier to get out.
Herbs such as chamomile, calendula, comfrey, rosemary and lavender may be infused into your oils by first heating up the oil slightly (not too hot as they will burn and oxidize) and then add herbs to the oil. Let this sit for a few days stirring every so often and then pour the oil off. Your herbs should always be completely dried before doing this to prevent moisture and fungus from getting into your oils. Generally the ratio is 4:1 oil to herbs if they are already dehydrated.
Last but not least make sure you don’t add any water based products to your ointments and balms. They will not mix in and could ruin it. This also includes water soluble colors. If you want to color your product make sure you are using oil soluble colors. Infusing some herbs into the oil such as calendula will give your products a nice natural color. Alfalfa and Parsley will give a nice green color and calendula a butter color. Unrefined beeswax imparts a nice honey color and honey scent.
Oil soluble perfumes and essential oils may be mixed straight into ointments and balms. It is best to do this at the end so that they perfumes and oils do not vaporize.
When using anti-oxidants such as Vitamin E and Rosemary extract add these first thing as it will help keep the oils from breaking down when you are heating them.
